Saturday, August 11, 2007

August 1- 6, 2007, Destination: Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso

OUT OF AFRICA

I am a privileged person to have opportunities to visit so many countries. Okay for well-traveled people the list might not be impressive enough but for a hometown girl like me who did not even dream of reaching as far as Manila; I take it as an achievement just the same. Not counting the Netherlands and the Philippines which I consider my home countries, let me mention the countries I already visited: Belgium, France, Spain, Sweden, Germany, Italy, Switzerland, United Kingdom, Luxembourg, Austria, Czech Republic, Portugal, the small republic of San Marino, Turkey, and USA (New York City several times, San Francisco, Washington, DC, Florida, Los Angeles, Utah, Colorado). In Asia, I have been to Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, and Hong Kong. I also had a chance to visit Mexico (3 times!) and Ecuador. Although I've been to Tunis (North Africa) too, I still consider I've never been to Africa, the Cradle of Civilization, second largest continent, and the home of the world’s poorest countries.


Last August 1-6, I had a chance to visit Ougadougou, the capital of Burkina Faso formerly known as Upper Volta. Ouagadougou has a population of around 360,000 (in 1985). Founded in the 15th century, Burkina Faso was the capital of the Mossi kingdom of Wagadugu (in 1441). About 250 years later, it became the permanent residence of the Morho naba (great king), the Mossi king. In fact, even today, the Morho naba lives in the city, though with much-depleted powers. The country came under French control in the late 19th century and ultimately gained independence in 1960. However, it was only in 1984 that the borders of the country were finally defined. The name Burkina Faso literally means the "land of upright people."

What amazed me are the wide variety of souvenirs such as wooden statuettes, bronze models, masks, jewelries, fabrics, hand woven blankets and leather goods and crafts ranging from chessboards to ashtrays are available in the markets of Ouagadougou. Burkina Faso is one of the poorest countries in the world. The UN Development Programme in its Human Development Report places it 174th out of the 177 countries listed, with an estimated 80 per cent of its population living on less than $2 a day. And yet, you will find so many banks concentrated in the city. You bet, there is Western Union office in almost every block or better say several offices on every street. It goes to show that Burkina Faso is receiving huge remittances from Burkinabe living and working abroad. I was told most of the Burkinabe migrants tried their luck in Italy.

According to Index of Economic Freedom


Burkina Faso's economy is 55 percent free, according to our 2007
assessment, which makes it the world's 113th freest economy. Its overall score is 0.7 percentage point lower than last year, partially reflecting new
methodological detail. Burkina Faso is ranked 19th out of 40 countries in the sub-Saharan Africa region, and its overall score is slightly higher than the regional average

Burkina Faso scores well in fiscal freedom, freedom from government, and monetary freedom. The top income and corporate tax rates are comparable to those in the United States, but overall tax revenue is quite low. Government expenditure is moderate, and state-owned businesses are not a primary source of revenue.

This is probably the reason why there are so many banks in Burkina Faso.

I am grateful that I was able to participate in the Experts Meeting on Microfinance and Remittances which was organized by the International Alternative Financial Institutions (INAFI International). I flew from Schipol (Amsterdam) Airport on August 1 for Paris to catch up the connecting flight for Ouagadougou. I saw Manuel Orozco, a remittance expert who was also invited for the conference in Lounge 33 at the departure area. Vince Rapisura from Manila was also on the same flight. It was a re-assuring flight to Africa with Manuel and Vince around.


We had a smooth flight which took about six hours to reach Ouagadougou International airport. It was raining when we arrived in Ouagadougou which was a big disappointment for me since it has been raining almost the whole month of July in the Netherlands. I was truly looking forward to a sultry African weather. I only took light summer clothes with me and a sweater in case it gets cold on the plane. It proved to be the most useful thing I brought with me.

We had to apply for a visa upon arrival. It was not easy to communicate with the immigration officers since French is the official language in Burkina Faso. The officer seemed to be ignoring me the whole time so Manuel told me to wave my passport but this was of little help until Vince gave my passport to the officer. Maybe because I am small that the officer could not see me??? After filling the forms, Manuel, Vince and I were told to leave our passports with the immigration. We hesitated but there is nothing we can about it. It was a real relief to see Maaisata, the executive secretary of INAFI, and she assured us that our passports are in good hands. We need not to worry she said. Visa fee is US$ 20. We checked out after claiming my luggage - happily it arrived with me - and went inside the waiting car. Maaisata said that all other participants were already waiting for us at the nearby restaurant for the welcome dinner. I thought I was too tired to eat my dinner but seeing the rest of the participants was so tempting. I met familiar faces and it was really great to be with friends whom you rarely see.

The two-day meeting went well and the discussion bordered on how MFIs could link with migrant organisations and leverage their remittances for sustainable development. I met the two representatives of the Benin Ministry of Foreign Affairs. INAFI is organising a Global Conference on Microfinance, Remittances and Development which will be hosted by the government of the Republic of Benin and we were asked to comment on the content of the programme as well as the three-year strategic plan of INAFI.


I stayed in Azalai Hotel along Av. du Président Aboubacar Sangoulé LAMIZANA just about 5 minutes drive from the airport. It is a beautiful hotel and according to Soukeyna, Azalai means caravan referring to the camel caravan routes - bringing salt, jewelry, etc - began to be established through West Africa and the Sahara Desert linking West African cities with Europe and the Middle East in 300 A.D. It is a nice hotel and Soukeyna, the executive director of INAFI was very kind enough to assign to me a very nice and comfortable room with a giant bed!

A group picture of the participants of the expert meeting













Burkina Faso is world renown as the site of the Panafrican Film and Television Festival of Ouagadougou (FESPACO) is the largest African film festival. Every two years, the friendly Burkinabe capital, Ouagadougou hosts the film industry and film-fans, to this festival of pan-African film and television.

August 4, 2007: A visit to a typical village

Beside the huts you can also see small grain stores. Since it has been raining the last few days - and cool that I have to wear my sweater -, the fields are green and there were a lot of activities. The women and young girls were busy ploughing the field. Where are the men? It was an unusual time of the year because normally I was told it is hot and humid in Burkina Faso.

Cooking starts by chopping firewood.
Watching the women dancing I said to myself: I know that dance! "Let's do the bump" which reminded me of the dance craze in the '70s. Anyway, I enjoyed dancing in the open air.






This is all what people have inside the mud brick hut with a grass roof: several clay jars and a few clothes. Four women sleep inside the hut. I asked what they do with those large clay jars. They said, they store their food there. Vegetables remain fresh for a couple of days. And we worry about when our fridge is broken!
Imagine living inside this hut throughout your life! The daughter whose name I cannot recall anymore said that only women sleep in this hut. We asked Soukeyna on our way back why the wife and the daughters sleep in one hut and the father in the other hut. Soukeyna explained that the men have usually more than one wife, sometimes up to 5! So he usually sleeps in his own hut with one of the wives whoever is convenient.
The woman was kind enough to show me her hut She was proud to tell that they sleep there which made me think these people need so little to live. By Western and even by West African tandrd, sthis is poverty. I wonder if they know what life is - read what people have in Western countries - outside their community. But life is laidback out there. You can breath a fresh air and people are not enslaved by time and the hustle and bustle of city life.

The Street Scene



Selling anything under the sun . The peddler asked me to pay after taking the picture. Is he kidding?

The Market Place

Who cares? Customers can wait.


The amazing artesans





Djembe and me. A djembe (pronounced jem bay) also known as djimbe, jenbe, jembe, yembe or sanbanyi in Susu; is a skin covered hand drum, shaped like a large goblet, and meant to be played with bare hands. The djembe is also known as the magical drum, and the mushroom-shaped drum
Bought two beautiful blouses for Euro 10!
Batik-making in Ouagadougou? A batik is made by selecting areas of the cloth to be blocked out by brushing or drawing hot wax over them afterwards the cloth is dyed. The parts of cloth covered by the wax resist the dye and remain the original colour.


August 6, 2007

Efrain Jimenez of Mexico still have plenty of time before we leave for Paris so we decided to do another sight-seeing. After haggling the price for the taxi, off we went to see crocodiles which are considered by the locals as sacred.



Not impressive huh? Wait until you see my picture gallantly sitting on the back of the crocodile but my Mexican friend, Efrain Jimenez has to send it first to me!
At last here it is! Whoever dares to say that I am chicken, just stand up!


This young boy is polishing a bronze sculpture.


Visit to a shea butter processing project run and managed by women


Soap made of shea oil.


And the great company!


Vince Rapisura, Mai Anonuevo and Marlon Palomo
Mai can't make up her mind. Which one Marlon?


Efrain, the African man! I called him Barney.



Burkina Faso is poor but it is one of the safer countries in Africa, probably in the world. The people are very friendly. Efrain introduced me to two young men. Before I left, one gave me a necklace and a pair of earrings and the other one, a jewelry leather box with my name embossed on the cover. Aren't they nice? I had a good introduction to Africa but I still dream of visiting Timbuktu in Mali. Why Timbuktu? My father mentioned the place Timbuktu when I was still a child. I thought Timbuktu was just my father's creation: it is a mysterious place, a myth, an enigma. Much later I learned that Timbuktu indeed exists and it is a place for place of learning, wisdom and spirituality. Soukeyna promised that we will travel together to Timbuktu one day. It is a dream that I hope it comes to reality.

More information about Burkina aso

Sunday, July 22, 2007

May 26-29, Mexico City


Mexico City is the capital city of Mexico, D.F. It has a population of 19.2 million, making it the largest metropolitan area in the Western Hemisphere and the second largest city in the world. It is second only to Tokyo with a population of 35,197,000 in 2005.



Our holiday started here at Hotel Gran Melia Reforma which is located at Paseo de la Reforma. The superb hotel is close to government buildings and financial institutions.


Hotel Gran Melia was a pleasant surprise. It is an excellent hotel, the staff was very helpful. At dusk, Wim and I decided to walk to Zocalo Square when day merchants just started packing up their wares. We walked and walked and I had the a good impression how large the square is. I learned that it is the largest square in the Western Hemispshre and once part of Tenochtitlan, the political and religious hub of the Aztec empire. Over the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries the Spaniards built expansive and beautiful mansions and public structures from the stones of the Aztec temples that they had destroyed. (This is mean!).
The following day we started our real sightseeing activity.

The kind receptionist at Gran Melia gave us an advice:
'Don't go to the streets behind the palace!"
Like curious cats, this was the first place Wim and I went on a rainy evening. The market was almost deserted.

We did visit Palacio Nacional where we saw the amazing murals of Diego Rivera. Unfortunately, we did not have time to visit the House of Frieda Khalo.


Tlatelolco

Tlatelolco today is the Plaza of the Three Cultures. It contains the excavated ruins of the great pyramid, second largest in the city, and one of the oldest colonial churches, dedicated to Santiago (Saint James), patron saint of the conquistadors, who would charge into battle yelling "Santiago, and at 'em!" And it is surrounded by modern office buildings and government-built housing projects named for important dates in Mexican history.





"There are stelae, inscribed stone monuments. One describes the pre-Columbian history of Tlatelolco, which was an independent Aztec city until it was absorbed by Tenochtitlan in the 15th century. The second (shown on the next panel) tells of Cuauhtémoc's defeat. The third, erected in 1993, concerns the events of Oct. 2, 1968. This site was once a major Indian city that rivaled and eventually was conquered by the Aztec empire.

"This was Mexico's Kent State, except that the government killed about 100 times more students. The exact number is disputed. You can find holes in the old church wall made by machine gun bullets.

The monument lists the names of the known victims and chastises the press for its failure to report honestly on the event."










What a big blunder! I realized we did not see Templo Mayor! How is it possible? Our tourist guide did not it us there. Well, a good reason to go back to Mexico City.




















Translation: August 13, 1521 Heroically defended by Cuauhtémoc, Tlatelolco fell to the power of Hernán Cortés. It was neither a triumph nor a defeat. It was the painful birth of the mestizo nation that is the Mexico of today.--text of monument at Tlatelolco

The Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe


The famous basilica, located on the site where a baptized Indian Juan Diego supposed to have seen the virgin on Saturday, December 9, 1531.





Archelogical ruins of Teotihuacan

Teotihuacán is one of the main attractions surrounding Mexico City. Growing from an agricultural settlement, it would soon become the main city of the pre - Spanish Mexico.Considered by the Aztecs as the city of Quetzalcóatl (their main god), Teotihuacán is known by its two big pyramids: the Pyramid of the Sun, and the Pyramid of the Moon, being the first one the third biggest pyramid of the world.

For more information about this archaeological site, visit: http://archaeology.asu.edu/teo/

During evenings, Wim and I walked from the hotel up to Zocalo Square and stopped to look at some majestic building from both sides of the road. We saw the fabulous Palacio de Bellas Artes, a white marble concert hall and arts center. The theatre is home to productions by international and national artists, including the Ballet Folklorico de Mexico.

At Madero Street, corner of Filomeno Mata, we saw a house covered in blue and white tiles. This house, located at number 4 Francisco Madero Street, is covered in azulejos (tiles) from the state of Puebla, which are called talavera. The mansion was built in the 1n the 16th century.


Walking brings you to interesting places. We saw a large bakery shop selling hundreds, no thousands sorts of bread. Wim wanted to see more inside the shop and I was grateful I joined him. Then we climbed up the stair to the second floor without knowing what awaited us. Gosh, inside was like a candy store, no a house of cake! I have never seen so many cakes in one time and in one place in my entire life. It is like a fairy tale and I wanted to stay there forever!


How about this cake for your birthday?
Or this!
And this!
The National Museum of Anthropology

The House of Cake is awesome but it is a like a dream. The National Museum of Anthropology is the real thing! The center housed the an extensive collection of artifacts.



They way they were...




The grandeur of Mexican architecture



Four days in Mexico City and we did not see everything yet. There are still places to see, perhaps a good reason to go back to Mexico City. Then, it will be my fourth visit in this beautiful country.


Viva Mexico! Hasta la vista!