Back to Morelia, Sidetrip to Patzcuaro, May 22, 2007

Wim wanted to leave at 7 in the morning to Morelia since he is not sure how long the trip would take. He does not like driving when it gets dark. My best for as long as he will study the route carefully. I am hopeless when it comes to map. I am not used to reading road map in the Philippines as there is always someone somewhere to ask for direction. Besides, travelling the national and provincial highway in the Philippines is so easy. There is only one road!It appears that it is the same case going to Morelia. We just followed the toll highway and be sure that we don't miss the direction. There are only very names of the places to remember. From Lazaro Cardenas, it is less than 300 kms to Morelia, the capital of Michoacan. With the speed Wim is driving, we will arrive in Morelia before 1 pm so I decided that we visit Patzcuaro.

Patzcuaro is built on the hills sloping back from Lake Patzcuaro with a population of about 48,000 people.

Here’s what Frommer’s tourist guide book says about Patzcuaro:

It is located at 370km (231 miles) NW of Mexico City; 285km (178 miles) SE of Guadalajara; 69km (43 miles) SW of Morelia

Pátzcuaro is perhaps the loveliest town in Mexico. Crooked cobblestone streets, smooth stucco walls painted white with dark red borders, blackened tile roofs that join to form ramshackle rooflines -- it is a town meant to be photographed and painted. During the rainy season, when low clouds roll in and curl through the tall trees, and water drips from the low-slung overhangs, a sweet melancholy descends upon the town.

Pátzcuaro is in the heart of the Purépecha homeland. Beside it is Lake Pátzcuaro (one of the world's highest at 2,200m/7,250 ft.), whose shores border dozens of Indian villages. In these villages and in town, visitors frequently hear the soft sounds of the Purépechan language in the background as they take in the sights. Although distinct regional costumes are seldom seen today, Indian women still braid their hair with ribbons and wear the blue rebozos (long woolen wraps) that serve them in so many ways.

Source: Frommer's tourist Guide Book

The market in Patzcuaro

It is a busy day at the bank today. I wonder if these people are coming from the villages to get the remittances they receive from their families working abroad.

Playa Las Brisas (Manzanillo) at the Pacific Coast, May 20-21, 2007

"I would like to see the other side of the Pacific Ocean!" Wim quipped when I asked him why we have to drive all the way to Manzanillo.

The real reason why I hesitated going to the Pacific Coast is the fact that Wim wanted to drive the car himself. I was afraid that it might not be safe to be travelling by road just the two of us. Most of our friends who knew about our plans encouraged us to asked some from Zacatecas to accompany us during our travel. Wim was not to be convinced at all.

In the early morning of May 20, we rented a car at Avis and then off we went to the Pacific Coast driving through highway 54. I was really surprised to see the excellent road network from Zacatecas to Colima. Due to lack of time, we did not visit Guadalajara, the second largest city of Mexico, which I heard to be a very interesting city to visit. Around 4 pm we arrived in Playa Las Brisas (Manzanillo, Colima).

With road like this, driving is a real joy. We have to stop a couple of times to take pictures of the beauiful landscape.

As we were nearing Colima, I noticed that the landscape has changed. I could see coconut, mango, and banana plantations which reminded me of the Philippines. Welcome to the Pacific Coast!

The Las Brisas Beach (Manzanillo) along Av. Lazaro de Cardenas is considered as one of the nicest in Manzanillo, because it's clean, safe and deserted most of the time. The two-mile stretch (also part of Manzanillo Bay) ends at the entrance to Manzanillo's harbor. Manzanillo is located in the state of Colima on Mexico's Golden Riviera, between Puerto Vallarta and Acapulco on the Pacific coast.

This area along the coast of the Mexican Riviera is host to 3 main costal resort towns - Manzanillo, Puerto Vallarta and Mazatlan - as well as the exclusive and luxurious resorts along the Costa Alegre between Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo.

Today, Las Brisas is a dead-end peninsula, but at one time the road led directly to Manzanillo. The area has many older, inexpensive hotels, small sidewalk cafes, and numerous businesses. At the end, near the jetty, scuba diving and snorkeling are perfect watersports. More laid-back tourists like to watch the ships come and go from the port. It is a rare day when you won't be able to see large ships anchored outside the port, or cruising to deliver their cargo. (Source)

We stayed at Hotel Brisas del Mar and it is a good choice for those who are looking for a quiet place. Perhaps it is not a place for those who cannot just sit still, read an interesting, and watch as time goes by.

The wireless internet connection was really a big plus. Imagine me reading my email feeling the cool evening sea breeze with the vast ocean in front of me.

Sunset at Las Brisas


The beaches along the highway as we heeded to Lazaro Cardenas on May 21.
Again me and my laptop!

Zacatecas, May 17-19, 2007

Map of Zacatecas

Efrain, Wim and I agreed that we will leave for Zacatecas at 9 in the morning of May 17. Zacatecas at 8,100 feet elevation, capital of the state of the same name is known as the City of Silver and of Mexico's best-preserved colonial cities. It is located in Mexico's north-central region, about 610 km northwest of Mexico City and has a population of 150,000 and is built on a ravine on the slopes of Cerro dela Bufa. Due to its pink limestone buildings, Zacatecas is one of the most beautiful cities in northern Mexico. Thanks to the city’s splendid history and architecture, the UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site. Zacatecas was founded in 1546 following the discovery of one of the world's richest silver mine. The state relies on agriculture and cattle-raising as main source of income although it is still a center of silver mining. The 200-year old El Bote is still in operation and the largest in the region.

I had two cups of hot chocolate prepared by Efrain's Mom while Wim had coffee. Efrain has his usual Mexican desayuno. Senora Jimenez was truly perplexed to learn that Wim and I are not used to eating breakfast. I had to explain that she should not worry about us. We just simply don't eat our breakfast even in the Netherlands.

Efrain informed us that he still had to do three asks before driving to Zacatecas: he had to visit the chapel where his kind laid in state; pass by the school; and talk to his brother. It was not a problem. We were on holiday and we had all the time in the world. It was a beautiful sunny day.

Along the way - that is if Efrain's mobile phone did not ring as he received phone calls incessantly - Efrain told us more about his hometown. About his brothers, their cattles, the ranch, his parents, the local politics, the 3x1 program, and many more. I told Efrain he can be an excellent tourist operator or guide in case he decides to switch profession.

We passed by Aguascalientes. Aguascalientes' name (meaning “hot waters”) is also the name of the State; the smallest State in Mexico. The state was founded 430 years ago, offers a splendid assortment of old neighborhoods, churches, plazas, gardens, architectural monuments, modern edifices, museums, bullfight arenas and swimming resorts with thermal waters. In this city, you can also attend various traditional events.



Efrain first drove around the city of Zacatecas before we proceeded to Hotel Meson de Jobito where Wim and I will be staying while in Zacatecas. He wanted to give a first impression of the city. This is my third visit to Zacatecas and the first time for Wim. I became familiar with city landmarks, the main streets, the cafes, and the shops. I stayed in Meson de Jobito during the Bi-national meeting of the Zacatecan Federacion in 2004 and I readily fell in love with its ambiance and its history. I was sure that Wim would like it as well so I asked Efrain to reserve a room for us. The hotel was formerly a 19th century apartment building.
Zacatecas has many beautiful colonial buildings, excellent museums and the magnificent 17th century cathedral.
Courtesy call at Zacatecas State Immigration Office where we met Fernando Robledo, Director del instituto de Migración del estado. Fernando was kind enough to arrange our two-day visit in Zacatecas.
A unique picture together with the State Governor of Zacatecas, Amalia Garcia Medina. This was my second meeting with the Governor who impressed me with her dedication in working with Zacatecan migrants.
Efrain interviewed by a TV crew.
The Sanctuario de la Virgen de Patrocinio, dedicated to the patron saint of Zacatecas.

The city landmark, Cerra de la Bufa is a rugged hill where Pancho Villas' decisive battle against the dictator Victoriano Huerta occured in June 1914. An interesting write up about Pancho Villa can be read here.

The "teleferico", the only cable car in the world to cross an entire city. It runs from Centro del Grillo (Cricket Hill) above the Mina Eden to Cerro de la Bufa. Wim and I took another route. We took the cable car from Cerro de la Bufa and down to the entrance of Mina del Eden. From the cable car one could see a panoramic view of the City of Zacatecas. the journey takes about 7 minutes and covers a distance of 2,100 feet.

The entrance to La Mina El Eden. visitors have to wear helmets.

One of Mexico's most unusual visitor attractions is a tour of El Edén Mine. The tour begins by taking a small train into the depths of the mine. A walking guided tour (in Spanish only) re-counts the mine’s tragic past. Forced laborers endured unspeakable hardships hauling tons of silver ore from the depths of this 1500-foot-deep mine. The mine opened in 1586 and was worked until 1964 when water flooded its lower levels. Of all places in the world, a disco has been built here inside the mine!

The Cathedral de Zacatecas is one of the best examples of Mexico's baroque architecture. The construction of the cathedral started in 1612 and ended in 1752, with the exception of its massive bell towers (completed in 1785 and 1904). The building is made of soft pink cantera sandstone and it has elaborate carvings, gold and silver ornaments and valuable art works.

Follow a band of horns and drums, a burro laden with barrels of fiery mezcal , and a group of merry celebrants swinging hands and dancing through the narrow streets (callejones) of Zacatecas.

On the second day of our visit in Zacatecas, Wim and I went to La Quemada, one of the northern region’s most important archaeological zones. It is about 56 kms to the southwest of Zacatecas off Mex. 54. This highly fortified, terraced and hilltop site was built on an important north-south trading route of the Mesoamericans. Also known as Chicomostoc Ruins, La Quemada is thought that the settlement reached its height about 900 - 1000 A.D. The Spaniards dicovered it in 1535. The on-site museum exhibits artifacts from the most important sites of the State of Zacatecas. Our tourist guide Aleyda is very knowledgeable. She is only 17 years old but she speaks fluent English, a little of Spanish, Portuguese and Italian.

A good pair of hiking shoes is a must!

After La Quemada, we also visited the Pedro Coronel Museum which is located at Plaza Santo Domingo. It has a fine collection of MesoAmerican and African masks.


There was still an ample time to visit La Quinta Real, a colonial-style hotel. La Quinta Real is one of the world’s most unusual hotels. The building encircles the 17th-century San Pedro bullring. Everyone should try staying even just one night at La Quinta Real. It is not cheap though!

Visiting Zacatecas is like a homecoming to me. I have made so many friends in this place. The people are friendly and the city center is unlike any metropolis. You can still feel the rural ambience. I feel very safe in Zacatecas.


Zacatecas in a nutshell:

• Official name: Estado Libre y Soberano de Zacatecas / Free and Sovereign State of Zacatecas
• Short-form names: Estado de Zacatecas / State of Zacatecas; Zacatecas.
• Location: In its territoy is laying the geographical center of Mexico. It neighbors the States of Coahuila de Zaragoza (N), Durango (E), Nayarit (SE), Jalisco and Aguascalientes (S), Guanajuaton (SW), San Luis Potosí (W), and Nuevo León (NW)
• Area: 73,103 km²
• Municipalities: 57
• Population: 1'353,610 inhabitants
• Capital: Zacatecas (Pop.: 123,899)
• Statehood: October 3, 1824
• Arms adopted: Unknown date.

INEGI and SEP
Reported by Juan Manuel Gabino Villascán, October 06, 2001.

Source: http://www.fotw.net/flags/mx-zac.html#zac_p

Interesting links:

World Heritage - http://whc.unesco.org/pg.cfm?cid=31&id_site=676
Brief History of Zacatecas - http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Acropolis/7016/zacatecas/history_of_zacatecas.htm
Zacatecas, City of Silver - http://www.ourmexico.com/story.php?storyID=25
http://www.visitmexico.com/wb/Visitmexico/Visi_Estado_Zacatecas
Flight information: http://www.farecompare.com/flights/Zacatecas_Airport-ZCL/airport.html
An interesting website on travelling around Zacatecas, Morelia, and Guadalajara states can be viewed at: http://www.mexperience.com/inmexico/diary/8legeight.htm
http://www.advantagemexico.com/zacatecas/index.html

Nochistlan , Zacatecas (Mexico), May 14-17, 2007

Efrain Jimenez, a Mexican friend based in Los Angeles whom I met for the first time in November 2004 arrived in our hotel shortly before 9 in the morning. Wim and I invited him to eat breakfast  before we heed to his hometown.

Nochistlan is about 300 kilometers from the city of Morelia. The easiest and most comfortable but might not be the cheapest way for us to go there was to hire a taxi. I knew it was not the kind of trip which Wim had in mind. He wanted to hire a car and drove it himself during our entire holidays in Mexico. But I was happy this way. It was more comfortable and reassuring that I needed not to think about where we were going since someone was doing it for us.


On Monday, May 14, Efrain, Wim and I heeded to his hometown. This was the beginning of our trip from Morelia to Zacatecas, Guadalajara and back to Morelia (Michoacan) by land.

I learned more about Efrain's hometown from Wikipedia (by the way, the only useful information I got from the inernet) as follows:

Nochistlan is a town in Zacatecas, Mexico. Nuño Beltrán de Guzmán, on December 3, 1531, hires Juan de Oñate to establish a village in Nochistlán, (now a town in Zacatecas México) the village would be named Guadalajara to honor Guzmán for having been born in Guadalajara. Guadalajara was founded in Nochistlán on January 5, having as officials Juan de Oñate, Sancho Ortíz de Zuñiga and Miguel Ibarra. They worked at this project for only 16 months and created the first layout of Guadalajara. 

The first news that we have regarding the natives of these lands points to the Tecuexes. These people established settlements around 1000 A.D. Later in the 12th century a new group of people moved in, these people were called Caxcanes and they were from the valley in Tuitlán, which is now found in the municipality of Villa Nueva Zacatecas. The Caxcanes established Nochistlán by driving out the Tecuexes by force.[1]

In Noschistlan you will find dusty little villages where men ride around on horseback, wearing lassos at their hips, boots and hats.

---

[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nochistlan

Nochistlan has several lovely town plazas where people congregate especially during evenings. Efrain took Wim and me to this plaza for two consecutive evenings where he introduced us to his numerous friends, young and old alike.


The Plaza

















While sipping mezcal at the plaza under the balmy moonlight, the mariachi played my old time favorite Spanish songs such as "Historia de un Amor", "Besame Mucho", and "Ceilito Lindo". How can we forget our Nochistlan summer night?


The beautiful and functional municipal hall of Nochitslan.






When Wim and I are on holidays, we never fail to visit wet markets. It is here where you can feel the bubbling activities of the local people. The display of local products always fascinates me.


Chicharon!!
This is what I call a real cowboy I knew in western films. I really wanted to take a close up picture but I suddenly remember the film "The Good, The Bad, and the Ugly". What if the man is not amused?

The 3 x 1 Program for Migrants
The paved road of La Villita village, one of the early projects in Nochistlan under the 3x1 program.
The Zacatecan migrants became very known because of the 3 x 1 program. We were lucky that during our visit, three projects were inaugarated. The Mayor of the town (el presidente) Ramon Jimenez, invited us during the signing of the documents.


The first project was the water system which will serve the inhabitants in this village. The beautiful chapel and plaza (see photo below) were also co-funded by migrants from this village under the 3 x 1 program.


Then we went to the turning over ceremony of the road construction also under 3 x 1 program.
Wim and I joined Nochistlan Municipal Mayor Ramon Jimenez (between Wim and me), Efrain (on Wim's right hand side) and all the people directly involved in the construction of the project. The inagauration is an important event for all the stakeholders of the project. Representatives of the local community, migrants (represented by Efrain) and the the local government represented by the town mayor are present. Several administrative matters are done beforehand: a project controller will check if the project is implemented according to the plan; the mayor usually asks the representatives of the community and all who are present during the inagauration if they have questions or comments on the project. If no questions are raised, the contract is signed.

Some may raise questions as to the type of projects covered by the 3x1 program."You also fund chapel?" Wim asked. Efrain explained that they started with infrastructures: schools, plaza, road pavement, electrification, water system, etc all considered by the local people important in their social life. The most important thing Efrain explained is that all parties concerned agreed that the project is important and they all will contribute to the fulfillment of the project. The chapel is important for the local people. I saw the functionality of it when a villager died and his body was laid for during wake in one portion of the chapel in La Villita. Every villager use the chapel during life cycles: baptism, weddings, funeral, etc. This saves them also from hiring a funeral parlor. Most of the roads even in remote villages are already paved. This makes it easier for the local people to transport their products to the town. The contribution of migrants in Nochitslan is very evident. It is a bubbling and progressive town. Migrants are buying piece of land to start cattle raising or other businesses. New houses are built. There is a strong desire now for the hometown association to go into productive projects.

I have seen how Efrain work. Two mobile phones ringing incessantly almost at the same time. A lot of people would like to consult him for the new projects. Mayors in nearby town would like to know more about 3x1 program. Some call to discuss about some problems they encounter while implementing the project. It is a full time job and come to think of it, Efrain, a representative of a hometown association is being consulted by policy makers!



Experiencing the Ranchers’ Life: A moment to remember





For a moment I dreamed of going horse back riding up and down the hills but I pity Efrain's nephew who will walk while enjoy the ride! I have to do two things before I go back to Nochistlan: improve my Spanish and learn horseback riding!
For many people, Efrain is best known as the representative of the Federacion de Clubes del Zacatecanos del Sur de California. Little is known about his being a real rancher. For generations, the Jimenezes have been running ranches in Nochitslan which is to my view primarily a male-dominated family enterprise where women play supporting but equally important role although many would think that managing a home is a clear example of gender stereotype. Most of the Mexican families in this town have large families. Efrian's brothers have 3-6 children and most of them are boys who learned at an early age the rugged cowboy life. Rugged but they are gentle children showing respect to their elders. Kissing of hands of their grandparents are widely practiced and they great visitors with firm shakehands.

I was truly amazed seeing Efrain's 10 year old nephew driving a pick up like a real pro. I learned that in Nochistlan, it is common to see young boys driving pick up loaded with cattles. They do not have driver's license but it is okay with the local authorities.l This is of course unthinkable for someone coming from the Netherlands where only 18 year olds are allowed to drive and only if they successfully pass the driving exam both the theory and practical parts. This means that drivers in the Netherlands must have at least undergone 40 driving lessons. Not in Nochistlan! Driving is an ordinary chore for young cowboys just like learning how to lasso a cow!

If I have stayed a week longer, I will be able to hear and gather so many fascinating stories on the lives of the ranchers.






At one point, I just lost count how many cows will be sold that day. We saw how the cows were selected: the calves and the mature ones. It is truly a dangerous chore. Efrain said calves give the best meat and therefore they are sold in Notchistlan!



Impressions of Nochitslan


This is the front side of the house of Efrain's parents. It reminds me of the cowboy films which I enjoyed so much while I was still in the Philippines.

Efrain's Mom has a beautiful garden at their courtyard. It is like an oasis.


Sunset at Efrain's ranch.


Water is an important commodity in this mountainous region.

After visiting the ranch, this roadside store in the middle of nowhere is truly a welcome sight. Drinking cerveza straight from the bottle  (limonade for me) with the local people is a real experience. I wish I could speak Spanish enough to carry on long conversation but Efrain is an excellent translator.

Efrain always said that the landscape is better during the rainy season. The grass is greener unlike this time of the year. Coming from the Netherlands, we really did not mind the heat and the savannah-looking landscape. It was a welcome sight.



Wim and I are very grateful to Efrain, his parents, and all the members of the Jimenez family for making our stay in Nochitslan a very memorable one. Mom's Efrain asked me before we left when we are coming back. I said, I can't promise when but we will come back. I have made the same promise to Zacatecan friends the first time I visited the place in 2004. I returned to Zacatecas the year after. And I am back again in 2007. Having great friends in this place is enough reason for me to come back to Nochitslan and Zacatecas which I consider like my home.

Nochistlan, the gateway to southern Zacatecas, is an interesting place to visit because of its beautiful colonial buildings and plazas, varied landscape, friendly local people, cultural events, etc. however, not much information can be found yet on this municipality on the internet or tourist guide books. Nochistlan is neither modern nor very rural and it might not have facilities for demanding tourists. Perhaps, for this reason that one should visit the place to discover its unspoiled natural beauty where mountains and the sky seem to meet. Visiting a ranch is highly recommended especially for those who are not familiar with cattle raising and those who love horse back riding. People who love hiking, Notchistlan is a place to be. There are internet cafes. Finding a hotel might be a problem so it is good to inquire from Efrain or the local municipal office for information. He might be able to help in finding an appropriate bed and breakfast service.

Aha....after Efrain read my blog, he told me that there are actually four hotels in his hometown but he kept it from my knowledge so we will stay in the house of his parents. Thank you Efrain.

Address:

Efrain Jimenez M.
First-Vice President
Federacion de Clubes Zacatecanos del Sur de California
1332 N Miller Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90063
Tel 323 262 1360
Fax 323 262 1462
Cell 818 384 2674
efrainjim@aol.com
http://www.federacionzacatecana.org/

For more information about Nochistlan, please visit:
http://www.nochistlan.gob.mx/
http://www.nochistlenses.org/