Out of the Box: August 1- 6, 2007, Destination: Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso

OUT OF AFRICA

I am a privileged person to have opportunities to visit so many countries. Okay for well-traveled people the list might not be impressive enough but for a hometown girl like me who did not even dream of reaching as far as Manila; I take it as an achievement just the same. Not counting the Netherlands and the Philippines which I consider my home countries, let me mention the countries I already visited: Belgium, France, Spain, Sweden, Germany, Italy, Switzerland, United Kingdom, Luxembourg, Austria, Czech Republic, Portugal, the small republic of San Marino, Turkey, and USA (New York City several times, San Francisco, Washington, DC, Florida, Los Angeles, Utah, Colorado). In Asia, I have been to Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, and Hong Kong. I also had a chance to visit Mexico (3 times!) and Ecuador. Although I've been to Tunis (North Africa) too, I still consider I've never been to Africa, the Cradle of Civilization, second largest continent, and the home of the world’s poorest countries.

Last August 1-6, I had a chance to visit Ougadougou, the capital of Burkina Faso formerly known as Upper Volta. Ouagadougou has a population of around 360,000 (in 1985). Founded in the 15th century, Burkina Faso was the capital of the Mossi kingdom of Wagadugu (in 1441). About 250 years later, it became the permanent residence of the Morho naba (great king), the Mossi king. In fact, even today, the Morho naba lives in the city, though with much-depleted powers. The country came under French control in the late 19th century and ultimately gained independence in 1960. However, it was only in 1984 that the borders of the country were finally defined. The name Burkina Faso literally means the "land of upright people."

What amazed me are the wide variety of souvenirs such as wooden statuettes, bronze models, masks, jewelries, fabrics, hand woven blankets and leather goods and crafts ranging from chessboards to ashtrays are available in the markets of Ouagadougou. Burkina Faso is one of the poorest countries in the world. The UN Development Programme in its Human Development Report places it 174th out of the 177 countries listed, with an estimated 80 per cent of its population living on less than $2 a day. And yet, you will find so many banks concentrated in the city. You bet, there is Western Union office in almost every block or better say several offices on every street. It goes to show that Burkina Faso is receiving huge remittances from Burkinabe living and working abroad. I was told most of the Burkinabe migrants tried their luck in Italy.

According to Index of Economic Freedom

Burkina Faso's economy is 55 percent free, according to our 2007
assessment, which makes it the world's 113th freest economy. Its overall score is 0.7 percentage point lower than last year, partially reflecting new
methodological detail. Burkina Faso is ranked 19th out of 40 countries in the sub-Saharan Africa region, and its overall score is slightly higher than the regional average

Burkina Faso scores well in fiscal freedom, freedom from government, and monetary freedom. The top income and corporate tax rates are comparable to those in the United States, but overall tax revenue is quite low. Government expenditure is moderate, and state-owned businesses are not a primary source of revenue.
This is probably the reason why there are so many banks in Burkina Faso.

I am grateful that I was able to participate in the Experts Meeting on Microfinance and Remittances which was organized by the International Alternative Financial Institutions (INAFI International). I flew from Schipol (Amsterdam) Airport on August 1 for Paris to catch up the connecting flight for Ouagadougou. I saw Manuel Orozco, a remittance expert who was also invited for the conference in Lounge 33 at the departure area. Vince Rapisura from Manila was also on the same flight. It was a re-assuring flight to Africa with Manuel and Vince around.

We had a smooth flight which took about six hours to reach Ouagadougou International airport. It was raining when we arrived in Ouagadougou which was a big disappointment for me since it has been raining almost the whole month of July in the Netherlands. I was truly looking forward to a sultry African weather. I only took light summer clothes with me and a sweater in case it gets cold on the plane. It proved to be the most useful thing I brought with me.
We had to apply for a visa upon arrival. It was not easy to communicate with the immigration officers since French is the official language in Burkina Faso. The officer seemed to be ignoring me the whole time so Manuel told me to wave my passport but this was of little help until Vince gave my passport to the officer. Maybe because I am small that the officer could not see me??? After filling the forms, Manuel, Vince and I were told to leave our passports with the immigration. We hesitated but there is nothing we can about it. It was a real relief to see Maaisata, the executive secretary of INAFI, and she assured us that our passports are in good hands. We need not to worry she said. Visa fee is US$ 20. We checked out after claiming my luggage - happily it arrived with me - and went inside the waiting car. Maaisata said that all other participants were already waiting for us at the nearby restaurant for the welcome dinner. I thought I was too tired to eat my dinner but seeing the rest of the participants was so tempting. I met familiar faces and it was really great to be with friends whom you rarely see.

The two-day meeting went well and the discussion bordered on how MFIs could link with migrant organisations and leverage their remittances for sustainable development. I met the two representatives of the Benin Ministry of Foreign Affairs. INAFI is organising a Global Conference on Microfinance, Remittances and Development which will be hosted by the government of the Republic of Benin and we were asked to comment on the content of the programme as well as the three-year strategic plan of INAFI.

I stayed in Azalai Hotel along Av. du Président Aboubacar Sangoulé LAMIZANA just about 5 minutes drive from the airport. It is a beautiful hotel and according to Soukeyna, Azalai means caravan referring to the camel caravan routes - bringing salt, jewelry, etc - began to be established through West Africa and the Sahara Desert linking West African cities with Europe and the Middle East in 300 A.D. It is a nice hotel and Soukeyna, the executive director of INAFI was very kind enough to assign to me a very nice and comfortable room with a giant bed!

A group picture of the participants of the expert meeting

Burkina Faso is world renown as the site of the Panafrican Film and Television Festival of Ouagadougou (FESPACO) is the largest African film festival. Every two years, the friendly Burkinabe capital, Ouagadougou hosts the film industry and film-fans, to this festival of pan-African film and television.
August 4, 2007: A visit to a typical village

Beside the huts you can also see small grain stores. Since it has been raining the last few days - and cool that I have to wear my sweater -, the fields are green and there were a lot of activities. The women and young girls were busy ploughing the field. Where are the men? It was an unusual time of the year because normally I was told it is hot and humid in Burkina Faso.
Cooking starts by chopping firewood.
Watching the women dancing I said to myself: I know that dance! "Let's do the bump" which reminded me of the dance craze in the '70s. Anyway, I enjoyed dancing in the open air.

This is all what people have inside the mud brick hut with a grass roof: several clay jars and a few clothes. Four women sleep inside the hut. I asked what they do with those large clay jars. They said, they store their food there. Vegetables remain fresh for a couple of days. And we worry about when our fridge is broken!
Imagine living inside this hut throughout your life! The daughter whose name I cannot recall anymore said that only women sleep in this hut. We asked Soukeyna on our way back why the wife and the daughters sleep in one hut and the father in the other hut. Soukeyna explained that the men have usually more than one wife, sometimes up to 5! So he usually sleeps in his own hut with one of the wives whoever is convenient.
The woman was kind enough to show me her hut She was proud to tell that they sleep there which made me think these people need so little to live. By Western and even by West African tandrd, sthis is poverty. I wonder if they know what life is - read what people have in Western countries - outside their community. But life is laidback out there. You can breath a fresh air and people are not enslaved by time and the hustle and bustle of city life.

The Street Scene

Selling anything under the sun . The peddler asked me to pay after taking the picture. Is he kidding?

The Market Place

Who cares? Customers can wait.

The amazing artesans

Djembe and me. A djembe (pronounced jem bay) also known as djimbe, jenbe, jembe, yembe or sanbanyi in Susu; is a skin covered hand drum, shaped like a large goblet, and meant to be played with bare hands. The djembe is also known as the magical drum, and the mushroom-shaped drum
Bought two beautiful blouses for Euro 10!
Batik-making in Ouagadougou? A batik is made by selecting areas of the cloth to be blocked out by brushing or drawing hot wax over them afterwards the cloth is dyed. The parts of cloth covered by the wax resist the dye and remain the original colour.

August 6, 2007

Efrain Jimenez of Mexico still have plenty of time before we leave for Paris so we decided to do another sight-seeing. After haggling the price for the taxi, off we went to see crocodiles which are considered by the locals as sacred.

Not impressive huh? Wait until you see my picture gallantly sitting on the back of the crocodile but my Mexican friend, Efrain Jimenez has to send it first to me!
At last here it is! Whoever dares to say that I am chicken, just stand up!

This young boy is polishing a bronze sculpture.

Visit to a shea butter processing project run and managed by women

Soap made of shea oil.

And the great company!

Vince Rapisura, Mai Anonuevo and Marlon Palomo
Mai can't make up her mind. Which one Marlon?

Efrain, the African man! I called him Barney.

Burkina Faso is poor but it is one of the safer countries in Africa, probably in the world. The people are very friendly. Efrain introduced me to two young men. Before I left, one gave me a necklace and a pair of earrings and the other one, a jewelry leather box with my name embossed on the cover. Aren't they nice? I had a good introduction to Africa but I still dream of visiting Timbuktu in Mali. Why Timbuktu? My father mentioned the place Timbuktu when I was still a child. I thought Timbuktu was just my father's creation: it is a mysterious place, a myth, an enigma. Much later I learned that Timbuktu indeed exists and it is a place for place of learning, wisdom and spirituality. Soukeyna promised that we will travel together to Timbuktu one day. It is a dream that I hope it comes to reality.