Nochistlan , Zacatecas (Mexico), May 14-17, 2007

Efrain Jimenez, a Mexican friend based in Los Angeles whom I met for the first time in November 2004 arrived in our hotel shortly before 9 in the morning. Wim and I invited him to eat breakfast  before we heed to his hometown.

Nochistlan is about 300 kilometers from the city of Morelia. The easiest and most comfortable but might not be the cheapest way for us to go there was to hire a taxi. I knew it was not the kind of trip which Wim had in mind. He wanted to hire a car and drove it himself during our entire holidays in Mexico. But I was happy this way. It was more comfortable and reassuring that I needed not to think about where we were going since someone was doing it for us.


On Monday, May 14, Efrain, Wim and I heeded to his hometown. This was the beginning of our trip from Morelia to Zacatecas, Guadalajara and back to Morelia (Michoacan) by land.

I learned more about Efrain's hometown from Wikipedia (by the way, the only useful information I got from the inernet) as follows:

Nochistlan is a town in Zacatecas, Mexico. Nuño Beltrán de Guzmán, on December 3, 1531, hires Juan de Oñate to establish a village in Nochistlán, (now a town in Zacatecas México) the village would be named Guadalajara to honor Guzmán for having been born in Guadalajara. Guadalajara was founded in Nochistlán on January 5, having as officials Juan de Oñate, Sancho Ortíz de Zuñiga and Miguel Ibarra. They worked at this project for only 16 months and created the first layout of Guadalajara. 

The first news that we have regarding the natives of these lands points to the Tecuexes. These people established settlements around 1000 A.D. Later in the 12th century a new group of people moved in, these people were called Caxcanes and they were from the valley in Tuitlán, which is now found in the municipality of Villa Nueva Zacatecas. The Caxcanes established Nochistlán by driving out the Tecuexes by force.[1]

In Noschistlan you will find dusty little villages where men ride around on horseback, wearing lassos at their hips, boots and hats.

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[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nochistlan

Nochistlan has several lovely town plazas where people congregate especially during evenings. Efrain took Wim and me to this plaza for two consecutive evenings where he introduced us to his numerous friends, young and old alike.


The Plaza

















While sipping mezcal at the plaza under the balmy moonlight, the mariachi played my old time favorite Spanish songs such as "Historia de un Amor", "Besame Mucho", and "Ceilito Lindo". How can we forget our Nochistlan summer night?


The beautiful and functional municipal hall of Nochitslan.






When Wim and I are on holidays, we never fail to visit wet markets. It is here where you can feel the bubbling activities of the local people. The display of local products always fascinates me.


Chicharon!!
This is what I call a real cowboy I knew in western films. I really wanted to take a close up picture but I suddenly remember the film "The Good, The Bad, and the Ugly". What if the man is not amused?

The 3 x 1 Program for Migrants
The paved road of La Villita village, one of the early projects in Nochistlan under the 3x1 program.
The Zacatecan migrants became very known because of the 3 x 1 program. We were lucky that during our visit, three projects were inaugarated. The Mayor of the town (el presidente) Ramon Jimenez, invited us during the signing of the documents.


The first project was the water system which will serve the inhabitants in this village. The beautiful chapel and plaza (see photo below) were also co-funded by migrants from this village under the 3 x 1 program.


Then we went to the turning over ceremony of the road construction also under 3 x 1 program.
Wim and I joined Nochistlan Municipal Mayor Ramon Jimenez (between Wim and me), Efrain (on Wim's right hand side) and all the people directly involved in the construction of the project. The inagauration is an important event for all the stakeholders of the project. Representatives of the local community, migrants (represented by Efrain) and the the local government represented by the town mayor are present. Several administrative matters are done beforehand: a project controller will check if the project is implemented according to the plan; the mayor usually asks the representatives of the community and all who are present during the inagauration if they have questions or comments on the project. If no questions are raised, the contract is signed.

Some may raise questions as to the type of projects covered by the 3x1 program."You also fund chapel?" Wim asked. Efrain explained that they started with infrastructures: schools, plaza, road pavement, electrification, water system, etc all considered by the local people important in their social life. The most important thing Efrain explained is that all parties concerned agreed that the project is important and they all will contribute to the fulfillment of the project. The chapel is important for the local people. I saw the functionality of it when a villager died and his body was laid for during wake in one portion of the chapel in La Villita. Every villager use the chapel during life cycles: baptism, weddings, funeral, etc. This saves them also from hiring a funeral parlor. Most of the roads even in remote villages are already paved. This makes it easier for the local people to transport their products to the town. The contribution of migrants in Nochitslan is very evident. It is a bubbling and progressive town. Migrants are buying piece of land to start cattle raising or other businesses. New houses are built. There is a strong desire now for the hometown association to go into productive projects.

I have seen how Efrain work. Two mobile phones ringing incessantly almost at the same time. A lot of people would like to consult him for the new projects. Mayors in nearby town would like to know more about 3x1 program. Some call to discuss about some problems they encounter while implementing the project. It is a full time job and come to think of it, Efrain, a representative of a hometown association is being consulted by policy makers!



Experiencing the Ranchers’ Life: A moment to remember





For a moment I dreamed of going horse back riding up and down the hills but I pity Efrain's nephew who will walk while enjoy the ride! I have to do two things before I go back to Nochistlan: improve my Spanish and learn horseback riding!
For many people, Efrain is best known as the representative of the Federacion de Clubes del Zacatecanos del Sur de California. Little is known about his being a real rancher. For generations, the Jimenezes have been running ranches in Nochitslan which is to my view primarily a male-dominated family enterprise where women play supporting but equally important role although many would think that managing a home is a clear example of gender stereotype. Most of the Mexican families in this town have large families. Efrian's brothers have 3-6 children and most of them are boys who learned at an early age the rugged cowboy life. Rugged but they are gentle children showing respect to their elders. Kissing of hands of their grandparents are widely practiced and they great visitors with firm shakehands.

I was truly amazed seeing Efrain's 10 year old nephew driving a pick up like a real pro. I learned that in Nochistlan, it is common to see young boys driving pick up loaded with cattles. They do not have driver's license but it is okay with the local authorities.l This is of course unthinkable for someone coming from the Netherlands where only 18 year olds are allowed to drive and only if they successfully pass the driving exam both the theory and practical parts. This means that drivers in the Netherlands must have at least undergone 40 driving lessons. Not in Nochistlan! Driving is an ordinary chore for young cowboys just like learning how to lasso a cow!

If I have stayed a week longer, I will be able to hear and gather so many fascinating stories on the lives of the ranchers.






At one point, I just lost count how many cows will be sold that day. We saw how the cows were selected: the calves and the mature ones. It is truly a dangerous chore. Efrain said calves give the best meat and therefore they are sold in Notchistlan!



Impressions of Nochitslan


This is the front side of the house of Efrain's parents. It reminds me of the cowboy films which I enjoyed so much while I was still in the Philippines.

Efrain's Mom has a beautiful garden at their courtyard. It is like an oasis.


Sunset at Efrain's ranch.


Water is an important commodity in this mountainous region.

After visiting the ranch, this roadside store in the middle of nowhere is truly a welcome sight. Drinking cerveza straight from the bottle  (limonade for me) with the local people is a real experience. I wish I could speak Spanish enough to carry on long conversation but Efrain is an excellent translator.

Efrain always said that the landscape is better during the rainy season. The grass is greener unlike this time of the year. Coming from the Netherlands, we really did not mind the heat and the savannah-looking landscape. It was a welcome sight.



Wim and I are very grateful to Efrain, his parents, and all the members of the Jimenez family for making our stay in Nochitslan a very memorable one. Mom's Efrain asked me before we left when we are coming back. I said, I can't promise when but we will come back. I have made the same promise to Zacatecan friends the first time I visited the place in 2004. I returned to Zacatecas the year after. And I am back again in 2007. Having great friends in this place is enough reason for me to come back to Nochitslan and Zacatecas which I consider like my home.

Nochistlan, the gateway to southern Zacatecas, is an interesting place to visit because of its beautiful colonial buildings and plazas, varied landscape, friendly local people, cultural events, etc. however, not much information can be found yet on this municipality on the internet or tourist guide books. Nochistlan is neither modern nor very rural and it might not have facilities for demanding tourists. Perhaps, for this reason that one should visit the place to discover its unspoiled natural beauty where mountains and the sky seem to meet. Visiting a ranch is highly recommended especially for those who are not familiar with cattle raising and those who love horse back riding. People who love hiking, Notchistlan is a place to be. There are internet cafes. Finding a hotel might be a problem so it is good to inquire from Efrain or the local municipal office for information. He might be able to help in finding an appropriate bed and breakfast service.

Aha....after Efrain read my blog, he told me that there are actually four hotels in his hometown but he kept it from my knowledge so we will stay in the house of his parents. Thank you Efrain.

Address:

Efrain Jimenez M.
First-Vice President
Federacion de Clubes Zacatecanos del Sur de California
1332 N Miller Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90063
Tel 323 262 1360
Fax 323 262 1462
Cell 818 384 2674
efrainjim@aol.com
http://www.federacionzacatecana.org/

For more information about Nochistlan, please visit:
http://www.nochistlan.gob.mx/
http://www.nochistlenses.org/